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At address 0xFA you can find the ident number of the device, which is 0xA4200000 for Nunchuck, 0xA4200101 for Classic Controller, 0xA4200402 for Balance and so on. At address 0x20 and 0x30 (seems to be an exact copy of the bytes at 0x20), 16 bytes of calibration data is stored. The data we're actually interested in lies at address 0x00 and is 6 bytes long. In order to read data from the Nunchuk, it's necessary to send the address to read from, since the controller of the Nunchuk increments the address with every read. Before the data from the Nunchuk can be read, it's necessary to send an initialization sequence. Reading parameters off of the Nunchuk's memory via the I2C bus is quite similar to the communication with a normal I2C EEPROM. I began developing by scanning for the actual address of the Nunchuk with my I2C scanner, which is 0x52. If you just want to use the controller, this information is not needed, but if you want to understand the protocol, I hope I can save you some time.
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The last section here discusses the actual I2C protocol. Best thing would be to read the raw measurements of your controller, when you hold it in neutral position and adapt the constants accordingly. At the beginning of the library file, some constants define the zero positions. This works since the Nunchuk is either held still or experiences a constant velocity from an external force.Īs described in the function overview, every function of the joystick and the accelerometer comes with a calibrated and a raw version. The calculation of the pitch and roll angle also works under a simplifying assumption, that the only velocity acting upon the controller is gravity. This circumstance also limits the pitch to just 180° and forces the roll angle to be wrong when the pitch is greater than 180°. Note: There is no nunchuk_yaw() function, since an accelerometer can measure only directional forces and no rotational velocity. nunchuk_roll(): Calculates the roll angle of the controller in radians.nunchuk_pitch(): Calculates the pitch angle of the controller in radians.A raw version for each function gives access to data without calibration. nunchuk_accelX_raw() / nunchuk_accelX() nunchuk_accelY_raw() / nunchuk_accelY() nunchuk_accelZ_raw() / nunchuk_accelZ(): The x-, y- or z- value of the accelerometer.nunchuk_joystick_angle(): Calculates the angle of the joystick in radians.nunchuk_joystickX_raw() / nunchuk_joystickX() nunchuk_joystickY_raw() / nunchuk_joystickY(): The x- or y-value of the joystick.nunchuk_buttonC(): 1 or 0, whether the C button is pressed or not.nunchuk_buttonZ(): 1 or 0, whether the Z button is pressed or not.Instead of nunchuk_print() a lot of functions can be used to acces the actual data: Okay, let's go to work and open the connector: Another strange thing is, the original controller has 4 wires and the replica got 5, while the connector actually has 6 pins. This is especially important for Nunchuk replicas, since the wires can be connected randomly. I recommend opening the plug, since you can see how the wires are connected to the pins. You can get a Nunchuk adapter for a few bucks, if you don't want to do this drastic step, but with some soldering skills, you should be able to repair the plug anyway. As I don't have a Wii and will not use the controllers for something gaming-related, I ripped apart the connectors.
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Nintendo connects all peripherals with a proprietary plug. So, if you want a long-living controller, I would go with the original, if you just need a cheap input device, you might have luck with a Nunchuk copy. However, I applied a Kalman Filter, which levels these differences. Also the quality of the accelerometer of the original is better.
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The joystick of the original has a higher quality, it can resolve all movements in the full range of values, while the copy doesn't react to minimal movements. What I can say is, the wires of the cable of the original Nunchuk are shielded, which makes them more robust against disturbances. Both versions are far away from expensive, but the difference is about 10-15€. The big question is, should you buy an original Nintendo Nunchuk or a chinese replica? In order to test my Nunchuk driver, I bought both - the original and a cheap copy. As a minimum, you'll need the following parts for this set-up: It's recommended to operate the Nunchuk with 3v3 and you should defintely use a level shifter if you can't supply that voltage to increase it's lifespan. On top of the device is an analog two-axis joystick and the whole device is sensible to movements, since an accelerometer measures forces acting on all three dimensions. The Nunchuk has two membrane buttons, called button C and button Z.